what brake fluid to use for a 1966 vw beetle

I just finished a voltage conversion, all new bicycle bearings, restriction shoes, and replaced a rear bicycle cylinder. I am now having trouble bleeding the brakes. I last tried bleeding the main cylinder outset then went to the right rear wheel. I become the main cylinder bleed and have some pedal simply after one or 2 bleeds on the rear wheel I loose all pedal. I tried removing the brake fluid tank and line and cleaned them out thinking maybe they were stopped upwardly but did not help any. I did observe that the fluid drains real tedious out of the tank. IE not a steady stream but rather past drops. I have never tried to bleed a system like this where the fluid is not placed straight into the principal cylinder. Any suggestions?

Friday Dec 29, 2006 iv:21 am

Howdy Kbarnes: This is really best done as a two person chore - Yous should start by bleeding the right rear brake as it is the furthest from the master cylinder. Loosen the bleeder bolt then snug information technology up again. Have a friend pump the brakes five or six times then apace open and shut the bleeder commodities. If cipher comes out just clear fluid then tighten the bleeder bolt back upward and motion on to the next wheel. If it sputters, so repeat the process. Yous volition probably demand to keep adding brake fluid during this procedure. If that doesn't do it your master cylinder may demand attending.

Information technology's a little agonizing that the fluid doesn't run out of the tank but perhaps thats normal with no pressure - I can't answer that role of the puzzle but someone else may be able to.

Good luck!

Post past **thatguy** » Friday Dec 29, 2006 9:11 am

I was having a similar difficulty with my "out 'o the box" new main cylinder. I had to return information technology to the store and get a second one. Something in the back half of the cylinder was off; I seem to remember a bum valve somethingorother wouldn't allow the fluid become through to the lines. Dropped in a new ane, and away I went...until Thor's hammer struck the engine on the drivers side; at present the motor is in the garage in bits and pieces...

*sob*

Post by **scruffy** » Sabbatum Dec xxx, 2006 8:53 am

I replaced my master cylinder and had a simular problem,put in new kit and had brakes for about 3 miles and then all the wheels locked up.Problem; Rubber brake lines were one-time and colapsed, acted like a check valve.Just considering principal cylinder is new doesn't mean it'due south practiced. You may have to tear it down and take look run into, mayhap piston not coming all the mode back.did you bench bleed the cylinder first? Haemorrhage procedure you depict is right on,I use a mityvac vacumn bleeder to bleed all mine,saved my marriage!

Bugs are a bear to drain you may have to do it three or four times to get all the air out. and then fill the refrigerator with pop invite a few freinds over and bask the evening!

Happy New Yr

Mail past **volksbugusa** » Sun Dec 31, 2006 4:07 am

hello Kbarnes:
I promise you are using a jar filled with brake fluid and a rubber hose to the bleeder.yous will encounter the air bubbles as yous pump and hold the brake pedal.if you lot are non following this type of procedure all you are doing is putting air back into the lines.Brand certain the shoes are adjusted first . Offset with the laissez passer rear .Y'all are using dot 3 ? It will take a skillful 1 one/2 hours to drain.If all fails ,it could be a bad primary cylinder.Information technology has happened.

You tin also buy speed bleeders,from mid america
non sure which size you might demand
6mm ten 1.0 thread pitch
7mm x one.0 thread pitch

Matthew D'Azzo
Volksbugusa

Post by **Kbarnes** » Friday February 23, 2007 4:41 pm

I am distressing I have non got dorsum before now only I solved my brake bleeding problem. Wanted to post what I found out for others. I discovered that the fluid would not run out of the tank until I took the cap off. For some reason the tank was vapor locking. The pigsty in the bottom of the tank is very small and then I took a drill bit and made it slightly larger. When I bleed the brakes I left the cap off the tank and had no more problems.

Post past **rokemester** » Thu Jul 02, 2009 8:06 pm

Scruffy would you lot mind going through your MityVac haemorrhage routine? I just picked 1 up considering there is no fashion my meliorate half is going to hang out with me in the garage to push a brake pedal upwards and downwards! In other forums they requite the vacuum bleeding method a hard time, saying it won't piece of work for air cooled VWs with drum brakes. Thank you!!

Mail service by **volksbugusa** » Fri Jul 03, 2009 3:51 am

rokemester
happy 4th !!! yeah the vw brakes are so simple however such a pita...
near of the time when bleeding is an issue it is considering the brake chief cylinder is non german language....y'all can also use the drip method which works very well....i have used the vac tool its alright still like the expert old manner style...if you have brakes but not the all-time pedal...the best thing to do is go to a brake repair shop and they will go the air out 100% with a power vac system...not expensive.....is your principal cylinder new? was it demote bleed outset?
matt

Post by **scruffy** » Fri Jul 03, 2009 5:20 am

with the mityvac,attach your hose to the cylinder,crack the bleeder open,pump your vac tell your fluid runs clear.tighten bleeder and move on to next. works on your chief cylinder likewise. go on your canteen total and cap off as mentioned.i've used it on my MG hydraulic clutch likewise and it worked cracking,and the nice thing no big mess to clean upward and ARE You Done YET,MY LEG IS GETTING TIRED AND HOW COME YOU DON'T GET ONE OF YOUR BEER DRINKING BUDDIES TO Help. Promise this assistance Scruffy

Post by **rokemester** » Fri Jul 03, 2009 9:28 pm

Yous guys are very helpful! When I first tried the MityVac I put vaccum on the arrangement with the bleeder valve closed...duh! I was purchasing some additional brake fluid this afternoon at a Federated Auto Parts store (the benefits of going to an auto parts store vs. a WalMart) and I happened to ask the counter guy about vacuum haemorrhage brakes. He told me as you have Scruffy that that you lot exit the bleeder valve open as you pump. I got minor bubbles only I think those are from the the vacuum bleeder not from the system. How do I bleed the master cylinder while it is installed on the machine?

Before I started bleeding I removed my front brake pads and cleaned upwards some rust residue on pads and drums (car was sitting for 6+ years). I also lubed the adjusters, one was sticking. When I put everything together, with the star adjusters turned all the way in, I had a tough fourth dimension getting the drums over the pads. I finally succeeded simply the pads are rubbing against the drum. Despite that, my lovely bride gave me a bone and sat in the issues and applied some brake pressure. Hey, all iv brakes worked!!

Now I need to get Murray to run.

Fri Jul 03, 2009 ix:30 pm

Matt, I like the idea of having a shop evacuate every chip of air in my system. I remember I got most with the MityVac, just you never know. What is the drip method?

Thu Jul 09, 2009 iv:10 pm

Kbarnes wrote:I am sorry I have not got back before now but I solved my restriction bleeding trouble. Wanted to mail what I found out for others. I discovered that the fluid would non run out of the tank until I took the cap off. For some reason the tank was vapor locking.

For some reason? You lot need to notice the problem and set up it. All VW reservoir caps have a small vent hole, and must be vented to the temper or the brake fluid volition stay in the reservoir. It sounds equally if yours is plugged.

Take the cap off and pull out the safety inner seal and examine it. Was it plugging off the hole in the center of the cap? The seal should have a small hole in it. If it's plugged, yous demand to open up it up. If the center of the seal was stuck against hole in the meridian top, the easiest prepare I've establish is to only reinstall the seal upside downwards, leaving an air pocket in the top.

what brake fluid to use for a 1966 vw beetle

Bleeding brakes

Haemorrhage brakes

Brakes

Re: Brakes

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